A Weekend in Alsace, France

The pork-centric cuisine and its most noted dry Riesling wines were highlights. With a strong German influence, a road trip to Alsace was indeed an ideal weekend getaway.

I fancied visiting Alsace for three things. The first is the pork-centric Alsatian cuisine. The second is its most noted dry Riesling wines. The third is a strong German influence in this side of France.

A road trip to Alsace was indeed an ideal weekend getaway.

Due to its tumultuous past and its location between France and Germany, Alsace’s local culture is quite distinct. Alsatians feel extremely proud to be French. Nonetheless, Alsace displays its strong German heritage from the local dialect to the traditional meals and iconic architecture.

Alsatian Vineyard Route (Route du Vin)

The Alsatian Vineyard Route is absolutely a rite-of-passage, especially for wine fanatics. Stretching from Marlenheim in the north near Strasbourg to Thann in the south and east to Mulhouse, this route goes along wine-producing villages situated on the slope of the Massif des Vosges.

With 67 towns and villages, this route is divided into four regions, from south to north: Thann-Colmar, Colmar-Ribeauville, Ribeauville-Obernai, and Obernai-Marlenheim.

Alsace wines are mostly white with grapes also typically used in Germany. Gewurztraminer and Rieslings are the most notable grape varieties in the Alsace region.

Alsatian Cuisine

Warm fermented cabbage topped with pork and sausages makes choucroute my favorite winter dish. I’ve loved it ever since I moved here to Europe. At first, I thought it was a Swiss traditional dish. Still, this warm delight introduced me to Alsace. Choucroute (or saukraut) is apparently the gastronomic symbol in the region.

No doubt about it, choucroute wasn’t hard to find in Alsace.

Alsatian dishes are rich and generous. They incorporate pork and potatoes in various ways. The dishes are served in generous portions. Alsatian cuisine is heavily German influenced with a distinctive Gallic flavor.

Believe it or not, I enjoyed all other traditional Alsatian delights over that weekend. I tried tarte flambee, which is an onion, bacon, and creme fraiche pizza. I also enjoyed Baekehoffe, an oven stew mix of potatoes, onions, mutton, beef, and pork. Additionally, I ate charcuteries, which are smoked meats, of all sorts. I also savored that yummy crème brulee. My goodness me, I managed to reach my full carnivorousness potential!

Of course, we didn’t skip sipping some Alsatian wines.  White, of course too.

Did you know that Alsace is one of the French regions with the greatest number of restaurants per inhabitant? Before I forget, if you’re interested, feel free to visit one of them. You also choose a handful from the Michelin list.

Riquewihr

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Riquewihr is one of the prettiest and most delightful villages to visit in France. It is a little medieval city situated between the Vosges mountains and Alsace vineyards. The village’s layout and structure have not changed much since the Middle Ages. The people have not changed much either. They still have the same lifestyle revolving around the industry of wine-making.

Riquewihr is a remarkably well-preserved medieval town nestled in the heart of Alsace’s wine region, often called one of France’s most beautiful villages. Encircled by 16th-century ramparts and cobblestone streets lined with half-timbered houses painted in vibrant yellows, blues, and reds, this fairy-tale settlement appears almost untouched by time. The town’s prosperity was built on wine production, and today visitors can explore numerous cellars and tasting rooms while wandering past ornate Renaissance fountains, wrought-iron shop signs, and flower-bedecked balconies. Riquewihr’s exceptional preservation—it suffered minimal damage during both world wars—makes it a living museum of Alsatian architecture and culture, drawing visitors who come to experience its Christmas markets, local Riesling and Gewürztraminer wines, and the enchanting atmosphere of its narrow medieval lanes.

A walk through the little streets of Riquewihr is a delight for every traveler. You can stroll along these cobblestone streets. You can also feast on the colorful German-inspired architecture.

Kaysersberg

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Not so far from Riquewihr, Kaysersberg is another idyllic village that is worth to visit. This village is bigger, yet every bit is as beautiful as Riquewihr. But quieter and more relaxing to go around, I would say.

Kaysersberg is a picturesque medieval town nestled in the heart of Alsace’s wine region, about 10 kilometers northwest of Colmar. This enchanting commune, whose name means “Emperor’s Mountain,” is renowned for its remarkably well-preserved half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets, and the ruins of a 13th-century imperial castle that overlooks the town from a nearby hilltop. The town straddles the Weiss River, which flows through its center beneath charming stone bridges, while colorful flower boxes adorn the windows of traditional Alsatian buildings. Kaysersberg is perhaps most famous as the birthplace of Albert Schweitzer, the Nobel Peace Prize-winning physician and philosopher, and today it attracts visitors with its exceptional wines, traditional Christmas market, and its designation as one of “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” (The Most Beautiful Villages of France). The surrounding vineyards produce excellent Riesling and Gewürztraminer wines, making it a popular stop along Alsace’s scenic wine route.

There are also other villages like Colmar, and not so far from Alsace is its famous city, Strasbourg.  We are already feeling lethargic from a meat overdose, so that’s why we decided to skip the visit to these equally pretty places. Indeed, Alsace is the other side of France that is interesting to see.

Practical Info & FAQs

How we got there

It took us awhile to find our hidden getaway. We drove away from Grand Ballon. We went further to the forest side.

The 3-star Saint-Bernabe Hotel and Spa is located in the heart of the Ballons des Vosges Regional Natural Park in Alsace. It is a veritable haven of tranquility for nature lovers (like us).

This hotel has Hôtel au Naturel label that clearly provides a relaxing retreat of unspoiled nature. The hotel has its own wellness center. The Les Fougères Spa opens its doors to a world of well-being. It helps guests make the most of the surrounding peace and serenity. In this sanctum of quietude, dedicated to relaxation and awakening of the senses, feel stress and strains melt away in the jacuzzi, the saunas, the hammam or the outdoor swimming pool (with heater!). And they also offer relaxing massages, which I took of course. 

The hotel also has its own restaurant, Le Jardin des Saveurs. The dinner over there on our first night was top. Overall, it was really an enjoyable and relaxing stay in Saint-Bernabe Hotel and Spa.

What we did

Get a road trip in the Alsatian Vineyard Route. Try to get lost and stuck in small, unheard wine villages in the region.

Visit the well-known medieval wine villages including Riquewihr, Kaysersberg, Colmar. Feast on medieval beauties, still at its finest.

Eat and drink like an Alsatian. Alsace produces fine wines from Riesling, Sylvaner, Gewürztraminer, and other types of grapes. It also creates clear, potent, aromatic distilled liquors (eaux-de-vie). These originate from the many fruit varieties. Berries also grow in abundance in this northeastern corner of the country.

For traditional fare, look for smaller, family-run restaurants, bistros, bakeries and pastry shops. Then enjoy eating traditional Alsatian dishes. Try choucroûte garnie, Bäckeoffe, and tarte flambée. Other favorites include Kugelhopf, Munster cheese, and crème brulee. Don’t miss the fruit tarts, smoked meats, and sausages. If you want to go modern and upscale, Alsace is also known for having the highest number of Michelin restaurants per inhabitant.

What we could have done more

Visit Strasbourg. Strasbourg is the capital city of the Alsace region and now the seat of the European parliament. Get a stay in the Black Forest. Not so far from Alsace is the Schwarzwald, or the Black Forest. It has a vast expanse of hills, valleys, rivers, and forests.