A Road Trip Adventure in the South of Morocco

A 15-day family road trip through southern Morocco unfolds from the maze-like medinas of Marrakech to the windswept coast of Essaouira, weaving through the Atlas Mountains, ancient kasbahs, dramatic valleys, and the vast Sahara Desert. It’s a journey of rich culture, cinematic landscapes, slow riad evenings, and unforgettable adventures shared.

We chose to spend our 15-day spring break to go around the southern part of Morocco. We started our journey in Marrakech, staying within the walls of its historic medina. From here we got our very first experience of a Moroccan medina —labyrinthine, vibrant, captivating. On the way to the infamous Jemaa el-Fnaa square, we would stumble across colorful souqs with vendors and their theatrics, street performers with their exotic talents (try charming a snake for starters), and eclectic mix of hole-in-the-wall riads, hammams and restaurants. Every nook and cranny would immerse you to pleasant surprises around the medina that it’s difficult for us to cover all the must-see places in such a short time. We spent time visiting the Madrasa Ben Youssef, shopping for Marrakesh perfumes, getting henna tattoos for me & the girls, chillaxing at the riad, and for Papa, getting a fresh shave from the greatest barber in Marrakesh!

About Morocco

Morocco is a country shaped by centuries of cultural exchange, conquest, and trade, positioned at the crossroads of Africa, Europe, and the Middle East. Its history spans ancient Berber civilizations, Roman rule, Islamic dynasties, and European influence, all of which have left visible marks on its architecture, traditions, and way of life. Trace this rich past in Morocco’s imperial cities—Marrakesh, Fes, Rabat, and Meknes—where historic medinas, grand mosques, madrasas, and palaces stand as reminders of former dynasties and flourishing trade routes. From the blue-washed streets of Chefchaouen to the fortified kasbahs of the south and the Roman ruins of Volubilis, Morocco offers a living history that unfolds across dramatically diverse landscapes.

Beyond its history, Morocco captivates with an extraordinary range of places to visit and things to do. Wander through lively souks filled with spices, lanterns, and handcrafted textiles, relax in traditional hammams, or stay in riads hidden behind medina walls. Hike the Atlas Mountains, explore lush valleys and palm oases, surf or kitesurf along the Atlantic coast, or venture into the Sahara Desert for camel treks, stargazing, and overnight stays in desert camps. Add to this Morocco’s renowned cuisine such as tagines, couscous, street food, and mint tea, and its famously warm hospitality, and the country becomes a destination that blends adventure, culture, and sensory discovery into an unforgettable travel experience.

Marrakesh

Founded in the 11th century by the Almoravid dynasty, Marrakesh is one of Morocco’s most storied imperial cities, steeped in centuries of history, craftsmanship, and cultural exchange. At its heart lies the UNESCO-listed medina, a living legacy of stone walls, winding alleys, and hidden riads that reflect the city’s medieval roots. Landmarks such as the Koutoubia Mosque, Madrasa Ben Youssef, Bahia Palace, and Saadian Tombs showcase the city’s architectural grandeur, intricate tilework, and enduring religious and royal significance. Marrakesh has long been a crossroads of traders, scholars, and travelers, earning it the nickname “The Red City” for its rose-hued buildings and timeless atmosphere.

Today, Marrakesh offers an immersive blend of history and experience-driven travel. Lose yourselves in the lively souks, bargaining for spices, lanterns, leather goods, and textiles, before stepping into the spectacle of Jemaa el-Fnaa, where storytellers, musicians, performers, and food stalls animate the square from day into night. Beyond the medina, tranquil escapes await in the Majorelle Garden, traditional hammams, and serene courtyard riads.

Madrasa Ben Youssef

Madrasa Ben Youssef is one of Marrakesh’s most important historical and architectural landmarks, offering a glimpse into Morocco’s rich scholarly past. Originally founded in the 14th century and later rebuilt in the 16th century under the Saadian dynasty, the madrasa served as the largest Islamic college in North Africa, hosting hundreds of students who studied theology, law, and science. Its design is a masterpiece of Moroccan craftsmanship, featuring intricate zellij tilework, carved cedarwood, stucco plaster, and a tranquil central courtyard that reflects the harmony and discipline of Islamic education. Walking through its former student cells and prayer areas gives visitors a powerful sense of the institution’s role in shaping religious and intellectual life in Morocco.

Visiting Madrasa Ben Youssef is both a cultural and sensory experience. Explore the courtyard, admire the fine geometric patterns and calligraphy, and photograph the symmetrical arches and reflective marble basin at the center. The madrasa is often combined with a stroll through the surrounding medina, making it an ideal stop before or after navigating the nearby souks. Take time to pause and absorb the calm atmosphere, especially in the early morning, when the space feels most contemplative. As a place of learning turned historic monument, Madrasa Ben Youssef offers not only visual beauty but also a deeper appreciation of Marrakesh’s intellectual and artistic heritage.

Imlil in the Atlas Mountains

From Marrakech, we drove outside the city to start our road trip, starting off with a visit to Morocco’s Atlas Mountains. The Atlas Mountains stretch across Morocco, offering dramatic peaks and lush valleys that are perfect for hiking and exploration. The region is home to Berber villages, cascading waterfalls, and breathtaking views that showcase the natural beauty and cultural richness of Morocco.

The Atlas Mountains have played a vital role in Morocco’s history for centuries, serving as both a natural barrier and a cultural heartland for the Amazigh (Berber) people. Stretching across central Morocco, the range has long been home to traditional villages built into steep valleys and mountain slopes, where age-old customs, agriculture, and craftsmanship continue to thrive. Historically, the mountains protected inland cities from invasions and shaped trade routes linking the Sahara to northern Morocco. Places such as Imlil, Toubkal National Park, and remote Berber settlements offer insight into a way of life deeply connected to the land, marked by communal traditions, hospitality, and resilience.

The Atlas Mountains are one of Morocco’s most rewarding destinations for nature lovers and adventure seekers. Go hiking and trekking, including climbs near Mount Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa, or enjoy gentler walks through valleys dotted with terraced farms and waterfalls. Cultural experiences include staying in Berber guesthouses, visiting local markets, and sharing traditional meals with mountain families. The region is also ideal for day trips from Marrakesh, offering cooler temperatures, scenic drives, and unforgettable viewpoints. We stopped by at Imlil, a small Berber village that serves as our hiking starting point. Together with our tour guide, we started trekking to steep and rough paths that lead us to Imlil Waterfalls.

Driving further through the Atlas Mountain pass the next day en route to Ourzazate, we briefly visited Ait Ben Haddou, a UNESCO World Heritage site, famed for its striking mudbrick architecture and ancient fortified village that has appeared in numerous films.

Ait Ben Haddou

Ait Ben Haddou is one of Morocco’s most iconic historical sites, famed for its striking earthen architecture and timeless setting along the ancient caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh. This fortified ksar, which is a group of clay and mud‑brick buildings surrounded by defensive walls, dates back to at least the 11th century and once served as a key stop for traders carrying gold, salt, and spices across the Atlas Mountains. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ait Ben Haddou is a remarkable example of traditional southern Moroccan architecture, with its crenelated towers, granaries, and interconnected homes rising dramatically against the desert landscape.

Visiting Ait Ben Haddou is both a cultural and experiential journey. Wander through the narrow passageways of the ksar, climb to the hilltop granary for sweeping views of the surrounding valley, and observe how a few families still maintain traditional ways of life within the village. The site is also celebrated for its cinematic legacy, having appeared in films and series such as Gladiator, Lawrence of Arabia, and Game of Thrones.

Ourzazate & Kasbah Amridil

Often called the “Gateway to the Sahara,” Ourzazate is famous for its impressive kasbahs and has served as a backdrop for many major films due to its dramatic desert landscapes. Ourzazate has long held strategic importance as a crossroads between the Atlas Mountains and the desert trade routes beyond. Historically, the region flourished through caravan trade, linking Marrakesh with sub-Saharan Africa, and its legacy is preserved in the impressive kasbahs and fortified villages that dot the surrounding landscape. These earthen structures reflect traditional Berber architecture and centuries of adaptation to the harsh desert climate. Ourzazate’s dramatic scenery and well-preserved kasbahs later attracted international filmmakers, transforming the city into one of Morocco’s most famous cinematic hubs.

Ourzazate offers a rich mix of history, culture, and experiences. Highlights include Kasbah Taourirt in the city center and nearby Kasbah Amridil, one of the best-preserved kasbahs in Morocco, both offering insight into desert life and traditional craftsmanship. Film enthusiasts can explore Atlas Studios and CLA Studios, where scenes from iconic movies such as Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator were shot.

Not so far from Ourzazate’s center, we visited Kasbah Amridil, which stands out as one of Morocco’s most well-preserved kasbahs, showcasing traditional Berber architecture and offering fascinating glimpses into local history and daily life. Dating back to the 17th century, the kasbah was built as a fortified family residence and agricultural center, designed to withstand the harsh desert climate while supporting communal living through storage rooms, kitchens, olive presses, and living quarters. Explore its narrow passageways, climb its towers for views over the palm groves, and examine everyday objects that illustrate how families once lived and worked within its walls. The kasbah is also known for its cinematic legacy, having served as a filming location for Lawrence of Arabia, adding to its cultural allure. A visit to Kasbah Amridil combines history, architecture, photography, and quiet exploration, making it a rewarding stop for those interested in Morocco’s desert heritage.

Bits of Dades Valley: Monkey Fingers & Todgha Gorge

On another day-long ride leaving Ourzazate, we eventually ended up in Dades Valley. Also known as the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs, Dades Valley is renowned for its dramatic red rock formations, lush palm groves, and winding river that carves through the landscape.

Often called the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs, Dades Valley is a dramatic region shaped by centuries of river erosion, trade, and Berber settlement. Historically, the valley was an important corridor along caravan routes connecting the Sahara with northern Morocco, and its landscape is dotted with fortified kasbahs built from red adobe, blending seamlessly into the surrounding cliffs. Get drawn to its striking rock formations, lush palm oases, and winding roads carved into the canyon walls. Highlights include the famous Dades Gorge with its steep limestone cliffs, the surreal Monkey Fingers rock formations, and nearby Todgha Gorge, a natural canyon popular with hikers and climbers. Things to do range from scenic drives and photography to short hikes through villages, meeting local Berber communities, and enjoying river‑side walks, making Dades Valley a rewarding blend of natural beauty, history, and slow, scenic exploration.

We didn’t have much time left to go through the scenic drive through the valley, because a late afternoon swimming in the pool for every pit stop is a must for the girls! So, the next day, we decided to quickly visit the Monkey Fingers, which is known for its striking resemblance to clustered fingers; and we drove further to visit the Todgha Gorge.

Todgha Gorge is a breathtaking canyon renowned for its towering limestone cliffs, crystal-clear river, and dramatic scenery that attracts hikers, rock climbers, and photographers. Todgha Gorge is a breathtaking natural canyon carved over centuries by the Todgha River, located on the eastern edge of the High Atlas Mountains near Tinghir. Historically, the gorge and its surrounding palm oases supported Berber communities that relied on the river for agriculture and as a stop along regional trade routes. Today, Todgha Gorge is renowned for its towering limestone cliffs that rise dramatically on either side of the narrow passage, creating one of Morocco’s most striking landscapes. We walk along the riverbed, admire the sheer rock walls, and enjoy the contrast between rugged cliffs and lush greenery. The area is especially popular for hiking, photography, and rock climbing, while nearby villages offer opportunities to experience local Berber culture, traditional farming life, and Moroccan hospitality.

Zagora, the Gateway to Sahara Desert

After the visit to Todgha Gorge, we drove further to stay overnight in Zagora, only to be picked up the next day for a long desert ride on the way to Erg Chegaga in Sahara Desert.

Zagora is a tranquil desert town in southern Morocco that has long served as a gateway between the Draa Valley and the Sahara, historically playing a key role in trans‑Saharan trade routes. For centuries, caravans passed through Zagora carrying goods such as salt, gold, and spices, linking Morocco to sub‑Saharan Africa. One of the town’s most iconic landmarks is the famous “Tombouctou 52 jours” (Timbuktu 52 days) sign, a symbolic reminder of Zagora’s past as a departure point for long and arduous desert journeys. We briefly explored the lush palm groves of the Draa Valley (our riad is actually situated within a palm plantation!), and wander local souks.

Erg Chegaga, Morocco’s Sahara

Erg Chegaga is one of Morocco’s largest and most remote sand dune fields, offering stunning golden landscapes and a truly immersive, bucket list-like Sahara Desert experience. Historically, travelers heading south passed through towns like Zagora before continuing deeper into the desert toward regions like Chegaga, symbolizing the long and arduous journeys across the sands. Today, Erg Chegaga is prized for its towering golden dunes, sense of solitude, and untouched desert landscapes. Erg Chegaga can be reached by 4×4 from Zagora or M’Hamid, then experience camel treks at sunset, sandboarding, stargazing under crystal clear skies, and overnight stays in traditional desert camps. Evenings are often enriched with Saharan music around the fire, making Erg Chegaga a truly unforgettable blend of history, adventure, and raw desert beauty. What a surreal experience for us to be in the Sahara indeed.

Taroudant & Palacio Claudio Bravo

After a day-long drive from Erg Chegaga and Zagora, we ended up in Taroudant, which is dubbed as a mini-Marrakesh due to the similarity of its medina. Only then, our next overnight accommodation caught us captivated and mesmerized all over again. Palacio Claudio Bravo is an enchanting museum and cultural center located near Taroudant, set within a former residence of the renowned Chilean realist painter Claudio Bravo, who settled in Morocco later in his life, showcasing his arts and personal collections.

The palace reflects Bravo’s deep appreciation for Moroccan craftsmanship and aesthetics, blending Andalusian‑inspired architecture, intricate zellige tilework, carved wood, and tranquil courtyards surrounded by olive groves and gardens. We chose to spend some time in the palace exploring beautifully curated galleries displaying Bravo’s paintings, personal art collection, furniture, and decorative objects gathered from around the world.

Taroudant is a historic walled city in southern Morocco with origins dating back to the 16th century, when it flourished under the Saadian dynasty as an important regional capital and trading center. Often called “Little Marrakesh,” the city is encircled by impressive red clay ramparts that stretch for several kilometers and offer a striking glimpse into its fortified past. We couldn’t visit Taroudant’s old medina anymore, and we only had a lunch stopover in Agadir. Before heading back to Marrakesh, we spent our last few days in Essaouira.

Essaouira

Essaouira is a charming coastal city known for its wind-swept beaches, vibrant art scene, and historic medina lined with whitewashed walls and blue doors. Adding to its global cultural appeal, Essaouira’s distinctive coastal architecture and historic medina served as a filming location for Game of Thrones, representing the city of Astapor in the series. We spent our days enjoying its medina for some dining, shopping, going around its forts and wharfs, and spa; and hanging out on the beach while the girls go surfing and camel riding!

Essaouira is a historic coastal city on Morocco’s Atlantic shore with a rich past shaped by trade, fortification, and cultural exchange. Founded as a significant port in the 18th century under Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, the city was designed with the help of European architects, resulting in a unique blend of Moroccan and European influences. Its UNESCO‑listed medina is enclosed by well‑preserved ramparts overlooking the sea, once protecting the city from invasions while facilitating maritime trade with Europe and sub‑Saharan Africa. Essaouira has also long attracted artists, musicians, and writers, contributing to its reputation as Morocco’s bohemian capital with a relaxed, creative spirit.

Today, Essaouira offers a wide range of experiences that combine history, culture, and coastal charm. Wander through the compact medina to discover art galleries, woodcraft shops, and local boutiques, stroll along the Skala de la Ville for sweeping ocean views, and observe daily life at the bustling fishing port. The city is known for its fresh seafood, best enjoyed at small harbor restaurants, while its long, wind swept beach is ideal for walking, horseback or camel riding, surfing, and kitesurfing. With its laid back atmosphere, vibrant arts scene, and mix of history and seaside living, Essaouira provides a refreshing contrast to Morocco’s inland cities and is a perfect place to slow down and unwind.

Practical Info & FAQs

How to get there

Coming to Morocco by air, Marrakesh Menara Airport is the most popular gateway to southern Morocco due to its wide range of international connections. Other entry points include Casablanca for long haul flights and Agadir for those heading straight to the Atlantic coast. From Europe, flights are relatively short and frequent, making Morocco an easy destination to reach. For travelers already in Spain, ferries across the Strait of Gibraltar offer an alternative entry via Tangier, after which domestic flights or onward travel inland can be feasible to reach the southern part of the country.

Once in Morocco, the best way to go around the southern regions is by road. Renting a car, preferably a 4×4 for desert and mountain routes, allows maximum flexibility when traveling through the Atlas Mountains, visiting kasbahs like Ait Ben Haddou, crossing valleys such as Dades and Todgha, and continuing toward desert towns like Zagora. For the Sahara, many either join organized tours or transfer to guided 4×4 excursions from Zagora or M’Hamid to reach remote dune areas such as Erg Chegaga. While buses and domestic flights connect major cities like Marrakesh, Ouarzazate, and Agadir, a road trip offers the most immersive experience, revealing Morocco’s changing landscapes—from snow capped mountains to palm oases and sweeping desert horizons.

We flew from Brussels and arrived in Marrakesh. From Marrakesh, we went for a road trip, renting a four-wheel drive vehicle that would take us around the dusty desert roads and mountain pass, visiting the historic cities and villages, kasbahs, medinas, riads and all. At our stopover in Zagora, we were picked up from our hotel and drove us in a 4×4 for a 3-hour long ride on the way to Sahara Desert, and back to Zagora on the next day. We then returned our rented vehicle at the Marrakesh Airport, before flying back to Belgium.

Where to stay & eat

When traveling in Morocco, accommodations are as much a part of the experience as the destinations themselves, with options ranging from luxury resorts and boutique hotels to desert camps and traditional guesthouses.

One of the most distinctive places to stay is a riad—a traditional Moroccan home built around a central courtyard or garden, often hidden behind unassuming doors in the medina. Staying in a riad offers an intimate and authentic experience, with beautifully tiled interiors, carved wood details, rooftop terraces, and warm, personalized hospitality. In cities like Marrakesh, Fes, and Essaouira, riads provide a peaceful retreat from the bustle of the souks, while in rural areas and along desert routes, travelers can also enjoy kasbah-style lodgings, eco-lodges, and Sahara desert camps, making accommodation in Morocco both diverse and deeply rooted in local culture.

Moroccan cuisine is a rich and flavorful reflection of the country’s diverse cultural influences, blending Berber, Arab, Andalusian, Mediterranean, and African traditions. Central to Moroccan cooking are slow‑cooked dishes such as tagines, where meat, vegetables, and spices simmer together to create deep, aromatic flavors, and couscous, often served with vegetables and tender meats as a traditional family dish. Meals are seasoned with a distinctive mix of spices like cumin, saffron, cinnamon, ginger, and ras el hanout, balancing savory and sweet notes. Street food is equally vibrant, offering dishes such as grilled meats, fresh bread, harira soup, and pastries filled with almonds and honey, while no meal is complete without a glass of sweet mint tea, a symbol of Moroccan hospitality and daily life.

In our first few days in Marrakesh, we stayed at Riad Karmela, which I find a surprisingly beautiful and serene abode situated in the bustling medina. Early on in Marrakech, we needed to get used to Moroccan cuisine, and my daughters pleasantly surprised me by enjoying couscous and tagines (as long as we kept the abundant bread on the side). Still, we managed to enjoy some of our familiar comfort foods too.  My favorite place where we had a sumptuous lunch in Marrakesh was Dar Cherifa.

We had a stopover for lunch and meet-up with our local guide for our trekking to Imlil Waterfalls at Riad Atlas 4 Seasons. After that hike in the Atlas Mountains, we stayed overnight at Kasbah Agounsane. En route to Ourzazate, we stayed overnight at a beautiful OZ Palace, where I got my very first hammam experience, and our room was topnotch!

In Dades Valley, we stayed overnight at Riad Sahara Dades. In Zagora, we stayed overnight in Riad Dar Sofian, but left our car as we were brought to Caravan du Sud, a desert camp in Erg Chegaga.

From Zagora to Taroudant, we stayed in the most stunning hotel we found in this trip in Morocco. Sadly, we only stayed overnight here, but Palacio Claudio Bravo is a dream-come-true moment that I will never forget. It’s such a pleasure to stay in the personal room of Farah Diba Pahlavi, known as the last Lady Shah, Empress of Iran. But beyond that, this place also resonated what I somewhat aspired for my dream vacation house— particularly an art studio with full of paintings and personal collections (from travels most likely), but without the large swimming pools, numerous guest rooms, the manmade lake, the mausoleum, the tower, and the humongous garden! I can dream, yet in a reasonable manner. 😊

In the last few days in Essaouira, we stayed Hotel Le Golf D’Essaouira & Spa, where we had a villa with a pool all for ourselves! Of course, Papa had his spa moment aka playing golf. The girls and I, on the other hand, had our first hammam experience together! While the girls went for some surfing lessons, I also had some shopping sprees in the medina.

In the next days leading up to our arrival in Essaouira, we would stop over in villages where we’d find local restaurants so we could have our lunch, or even dinner. We’re lucky somehow that we could find one right on time; because villages can be extremely far from one over the other that we could have really found ourselves in the middle of nowhere and end up hungry on the road. Mostly for dinner, we would have it in the riads that we stayed at. I personally enjoyed our dinners in OZ Palace, Riad Dar Sofian and Palacio Claudio Bravo (special mention to the paella Valenciana, that’s the best!). As for breakfasts, I personally enjoyed in Riad Karmela, Riad Dar Sofian (special mention to that smorgasbord of confiture served on our table) and Hotel Le Golf. In Essaouira we enjoyed a sumptuous 4-course dinner at O’Bleu Mogador, and on the last day, we went for lunch and dinner at Ocean Vagabond, from where the girls enjoyed the camel riding after lunch and seeing the camels again with a beautiful sunset by the beach.

Travel tips

Respect local culture and dress modestly, particularly in medinas, rural areas, and religious sites. Light, loose‑fitting clothing that covers shoulders and knees is both respectful and comfortable.

Learn a few basic words in Arabic or French (hello, thank you, how much), as locals genuinely appreciate the effort and it often leads to warmer interactions.

Bargaining is part of the experience in souks and markets. Start politely, expect friendly negotiation, and treat it as cultural exchange rather than conflict.

Carry cash, especially in smaller towns and markets. Credit cards are accepted in hotels and larger restaurants, but cash is still widely used.

Rent a reliable car, ideally a 4×4, if traveling through the Atlas Mountains or toward desert regions; road conditions can change quickly outside cities. Refuel whenever you can, especially in remote areas—gas stations can be far apart in the south.

Choose riads for an authentic stay, particularly in cities like Marrakesh, Fes, and Essaouira. They offer a peaceful retreat from the busy streets and a more local experience.  For families, look for riads with larger rooms, connecting spaces, or small pools—many riad hosts are very welcoming to children and happy to arrange meals or activities suited for families.

Be mindful of getting lost in medinas—it happens to everyone. Offline maps help, and when in doubt, ask shopkeepers rather than random guides.

Drink bottled water and be cautious with ice unless you’re at reputable establishments to avoid stomach issues.  Pack snacks and essentials for children, as shops can be sparse once you leave major cities, and mealtimes may run later than what kids are used to.

Plan travel times realistically, as distances can be long and mountain or desert roads take more time than expected. Plan downtime into your itinerary, especially when traveling with kids. Medina walks, long drives, and desert excursions can be intense, so balance sightseeing with relaxed afternoons.

Hire local guides for historical sites or desert excursions, especially in places like Ait Ben Haddou, Fes medina, or the Sahara—this adds context, safety, and depth to your visit.

Embrace the pace of life. Meals are slower, hospitality is generous, and flexibility goes a long way—Morocco rewards those who travel unhurried. Embrace slow travel: stopping in small villages, roadside cafés, and kasbah‑style guesthouses often leads to some of the most memorable experiences of the trip.